What Is Best Deal...

[Surfmonkey]

Looking at two trucks, both at a Ford Dealer...

1. 2009 Ford F150 XLT Two Wheel Drive 8300 Miles....Priced at $23500
2. 2010 Ford F150 XLT Two Wheel Drive 7350 Miles....Priced at $25500

What should I pay for these trucks Drive Out...
I have no trade-in...

[swamppro]

3. The chevy is best deal! hahahaahah

[Surfmonkey]

Chevy ain't gonna happen.....I'm A Ford Man....

[Hobie1Kenobie]

Go for the 09 and save a little coin. I am still driving my 98 Lariat.

[Branch_Office]

Have a 2003 F150 Supercrew I purchased new. Although I am installing a new transmission as we speak, it has 166,500 on it and looks as good as the day I drove it off the showroom floor. First problem I ever had with the truck other than tires and brakes. I had every other brand before and this is the best...will never have any other. You did not mention accessories but go with the most comfortable one and plan on driving it for a long time.

[swamppro]

I have always had fords and never had a problem till this one. 2000 expedition. Needs head work, transmission on the way out as well, changed alternator, and some sensors. Still want an excursion diesel though.

[Sandman]

My last vehicle was a 2002 Ford Explorer Sport Trac. It served me well until this year when the rear end began to go out. I looked it up online and that particular year and model had the same common problem. I traded it in for my GMC, but I would buy a Ford again any day. I agree with Hobie1; get the '09 (if all else is the same) and save some dough. You could still probably get it for cheaper if you found similar used vehicles and started playing the salesmen against each other.

[Paulup]

Roy, there is no reason you can't go get yourself a new one for close to those same prices. I bought my 09 Chevy brand new for 18k in March, its not loaded but for 5k more you can get a lot of options in there. Ford pricing has always been similar, if not lower, then Chevy.

[Paulup]

For example, USAA price on a 2010 F-150XLT short bed is $26,947, but sticker is $33,295. You can save $6300 bucks just knowing the dealer didn't pay as much as you'd think.

I know you said you're a Ford man, but for reference the Silverado LT is bottom priced at $24,779, sticker is $32,460, saving you almost $7700. I'm not 100% positive, but pretty sure these bottom prices I gave you are roughly $500 over dealer cost.

[Racechaser]

Looking at two trucks, both at a Ford Dealer...

1. 2009 Ford F150 XLT Two Wheel Drive 8300 Miles....Priced at $23500
2. 2010 Ford F150 XLT Two Wheel Drive 7350 Miles....Priced at $25500

What should I pay for these trucks Drive Out...
I have no trade-in...

Which Ford dealer?

[revredfish]

I've been out of the car business for a long time (praise the Lord) but I believe the 2009 is the first year of the new model - I would take the 2010. The further you get into a model the more kinks they've worked out - that's been my experience. I would also try and get a lower price - as what you mention is full retail. Get up and walk out the room a couple of times. They'll come down. Paulup's info is pretty accurate but generally a dealer needs to make at least a grand to $1500 to make a profit on a vehicle.

[Branch_Office]

I agree with Rev in regards to the model year. I would also work on a lower price since you have no trade. One of the main things is be prepared to walk away and find something else (do not get attached to either vehicle) if you do not get the deal you want. You probably did this already but did you check out Ebay motors to see what you might find. There are some great prices and trucks on there as well. If I was going to buy again that is where I would start. I know several people that purchased from there (vehicles out of Texas) and got a nice tuck at a great price sometimes with warranty.

[Surfmonkey]

If you buy out of state (Texas) you then come back to register and pay taxes, title, registration, correct?

[Branch_Office]

Yes, or they can do the paperwork there I think. Find one on line you like and ask them via email or phone call.

[Yak-a-Lou]

According to financial guru Dave Ramsey, you should never buy a new vehicle, Instead, buy a two year old vehicle because vehicles lose approximately 40% of their value in the first two years.

With that in mind, the '09' is the "better" deal.

We just broke Dave's rule too. Mrs. Whack-a-Lou has a one year old Mini Cooper S. If you see a blue streak going down the highway in our area it ws probably her.

[Branch_Office]

I also agree with the statement of buying a good used vehicle! Save more $$$

[MDR]

I will add my Susan B. Anthony's worth and join the concensus of the used vehicle and the ability to walk away. I sold cars many years ago and learned some valuable lessons to be used later as a consumer. The ability to walk away was one of the best learned. In most cases you do not NEED to buy a vehicle, but really WANT something newer, etc. Now you may really need a new truck, don't know and I'm not trying to get personal. The biggest thing is making sure the salesman does not get the impression that you NEED the truck. If you have to remind him that you drove in to the dealership and you can just as easily drive out in the same vehicle. Even without a trade this line will work.

When asked if you are trading something in tell them you are not sure yet. Having a trade allows many dealers to jack around prices on both the vehicle you are buying and the trade as well.

A used vehicle has already lost the depreciation that any new car buyer is going to eat as soon as he drives off the lot. If you are a member of a credit union they generally have better prices on an extended warranty than the dealer does. I highly reccomend the extended warranty.

I agree with Rev and Steve in staying away from a first year production vehicle if at all possible.

And one of my biggest suggestions over the years to folks that have asked is to simply make the best deal you can and be happy with it when you drive away. Do not look back. This is especially true in a new car purchase. Almost guaranteed that you will see another add in the week or so since you purchased your new vehicle that you will see a better ad or at least one that looks better.

I imagine this is way more info than you want and you really just wanted an idea of which is the better truck (the Chevy Avalanche is btw, lol), but perhaps others have similar questions and the info from several of us may help them.
Good luck.

[revredfish]

On a used vehicle I usually offer $2,000 less than what they are asking. They will act very offended. Listen to them a bit but hold your ground. The salesperson only has authority to move the price a few hundred dollars. Just politely smile and say - "go ask the manager". If he won't bring in the manager get up and start walking towards the door. If they don't come after you get in your car and go. I have a friend that usually does this twice before he buys a car. They will either come and get you or call you back.

You should be able to get them down at least $1000 and maybe $1500 off the price. New car even more.

[Surfmonkey]

Good information, and I did want more than I asked for. I want to be fair...I know the salesman has to make a few bucks, but I would rather him make it on the extended warranty than on the vehicle...
Experience with Ford's top warranty has been very positive in the past. Negotiating is not a problem...I do it for a living in the unionized construction industry...but I want to be professional and expect the
salesman and manager I am working with to be professional and honest.

[BayouCadillac]

Good information, and I did want more than I asked for. I want to be fair...I know the salesman has to make a few bucks, .

Having represented several floorplan finance companies in troubled dealer matters over the years, I can assure you that unless you are buying the car for 5-7% under dealer invoice, they are making money on the transaction (whether it be in actual dollars or meeting quotas or fufilling marketing goals)....that being said, most dealers act like dealer invoice is the best they can do and if they do, they won't make any money...it's BS. Why? because no car dealer operates in a vaccuum and customers aren't their only source of income.

That being said, unless you qualify for employee pricing, most dealers won't go below dealer invoice. What I have seen done on several occassions with some success is: (1) figure our what truck you want exactly, with all the options, etc. (2) fax out the information on the truck you want to 10 local dealers (some dealers may even have Internet sales reps) and offer to pay $100-$500 over dealer invoice (see edmunds.com) provided that they can deliver the truck within 10 days. Typically, if a dealer has the truck in stock they will give u a call and you can negotiate within those parameters....

[revredfish]

my numbers are on used vehicles what bayoucadilac says is true on new vehicles. That being said the salesman generally just wants to sell the car. How they get paid is often tide to the number of cars they sell - the manager makes bonuses based upon how much he makes on the cars. If the salesman knows you are buying but you aren't moving on the price they will become your ally very quickly. Don't squirm an inch though because they take pride in making money for the store and it is the manager's job to get every penny he can out of you. At least that was how the system I worked in functioned. They are often being honest based upon the system they work in.

I met a lot of jerks in the car business but I met a bunch of great people too. They are hired to sell cars and make money. They are just doing their job - its just one of the last places in our culture where negotiating is required for an individual purchase.

[revredfish]

PS if you can wait until after all the tax checks are done coming out you will fare better. July is the slow season for car sales. Picks back up around the beginning of school then dies off until christmas then the boom comes around april. that's 15 years ago anyway.

[Surfmonkey]

Good info....I was gonna wait til after mid July to make a purchase...so timing looks to possibly be in my favor....

[theoldcaster]

Rev, I knew you looked like a used car salesman

[Racechaser]

Good info....I was gonna wait til after mid July to make a purchase...so timing looks to possibly be in my favor....

I was inthe car business for 5-7 years out of high school. I went looking for a car for my daughter blind and she was amazed how many people I knew even after 20 years. I've got an old boss at Smith Chevy and a very close friend at Rainbow Imports on Hwy 190. If you see something there let me know.

I also have a good friend at Robinson Ford in Baton Rouge when you are ready if nobody wants to deal.

[revredfish]

Rev, I knew you looked like a used car salesman

grrrr.... I ended up the comptroller based upon my sales skills. I did however sell a car that didn't run...

[Surfmonkey]

grrrr.... I ended up the comptroller based upon my sales skills. I did however sell a car that didn't run...

Now, there's gotta be a story there......

[Yak-a-Lou]

My friend Dave Ramsey says...

http://www.daveramsey.com/article/why-should-i-buy-a-used-car/lifeandmoney_automobiles?atid=davesays

http://www.daveramsey.com/articles/article/articleID/drive-free/category/lifeandmoney_automobiles/

This addresses the imperfections in Dave's plan:
http://www.getrichslowly.org/blog/2007/01/05/dave-ramsey-says-drive-free-retire-rich/

Edmunds and CarMax also have great tips on buying used cars.

http://www.edmunds.com/advice/buying/articles/78387/article.html

Go get em!!!

Oh yea... I wouldn't spend a moment of time worry about a dealer making his fair profit. If there's no profit involved for the dealer, they won't hesitate for a nanosecond to say "No."