started mounting a trolling motor to a Tarpon 160

[Kurt_Loup]

Yesterday afternoon I started working on the trolling motor bracket for my kayak. I'm using a 30 lbs. thrust Minn Kota. The first thing I did was knock out the pivot pin so that the motor and shaft can be removed from the transom bracket.

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Once the motor was removed, I used my bandsaw to cut off the thumb screws.

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I used a belt sander to clean up the cut from the bandsaw leaving the bottom of the bracket flat.

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Once finished, I made a paper template of the outline of the bracket as it fits on the kayak. I taped the template to a sheet of 1/8" aluminum and cut out the rough shape oversize.

http://i425.photobucket.com/albums/pp336/kurtloup/IMG_4167.jpg

I measured where the bend was needed and using a rubber mallet I bent the aluminum plate around the horn of an anvil to get the bend started.

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The angle was fine tuned in a machinist vise.

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When I was satisfied with the fit, I cut the plate closer to final dimensions and I started drilling holes to mount the plate to the rudder nuts that are embedded in the kayak.

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[yak-aholic]

Definitely keep this post going. Been a while since we had a really informative how-to on here.

[Kurt_Loup]

This morning, I started working on the lever that will operate the pivot locking mechanism. I started with a bar of 3/4" x 3/8" aluminum. After cutting the bar to rough length, I marked the location for the 3/8" pivot pin and drilled a hole for a section of 3/8" aluminum rod.

http://i425.photobucket.com/albums/pp336/kurtloup/IMG_4178.jpg

I also drilled another 3/8" hole for the pin that will press on the lever and a 1/4 hole on the opposite end for a rope that will operate the lever. I made two decorative cuts on the lever using my mini mill. After milling, I rounded the ends using my belt and disc sanders.

http://i425.photobucket.com/albums/pp336/kurtloup/IMG_4179.jpg

I used well nuts to mount the aluminum plate and the bracket to the kayak, but the well nuts did not hold very well. I had to resort to cutting out a hole for a deck plate so that I can have access for adding a small aluminum plate and nylock nuts under the deck.

http://i425.photobucket.com/albums/pp336/kurtloup/IMG_4173.jpg

Here is where I stopped for the day. I epoxied a 1 1/4" long spacer on the pivot pin on the lever side and a shorter, removable spacer is slipped on the opposite side. I haven't drilled the hole for a cotter pin on the pivot pin yet.

http://i425.photobucket.com/albums/pp336/kurtloup/IMG_4182.jpg

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Here is a poor video of the lever in action.

http://i425.photobucket.com/albums/pp336/kurtloup/th_VID00158.jpg (http://s425.photobucket.com/albums/pp336/kurtloup/?action=view&current=VID00158.flv)

[Branch_Office]

Keep up the good work and the great step by step photos. As idunno said, "a really informative how-to" you got going on. We need more of these on this site. Thanks.....

[Kurt_Loup]

I'll add to the post as I go, but I won't be doing anything else until I receive the battery and the 2.5" aluminum rod I bought on ebay over weekend. Once I remove the head from the trolling motor, I will turn a new head out of the aluminum rod. Essentially, it will be an over built cap for the end of the shaft. It should be waterproof. I may use the head as the attachment point for the rudder cables, but I haven't made up my mind on that yet. I'm considering having the battery in the tank well and the speed control externally mounted so that I can easily move the trolling motor to my canoe.

Kurt

[derrelt]

Great job on the step by step info. When I get into a project, I get tunnel vision and forget to take pics. The mount you made is similar to the plastic one I used. Man that pivot pin set up looks nice. Sure looks better than my rope and pulley set up. If it works as good as it looks could be the start of a business. If you are interested, I could be your first customer.

[Kurt_Loup]

Yesterday, I purchased a sealed electrical box for the motor switch. At this time, I am leaning towards mounting the box externally rather than in the hull. I'll use the adjustable Ram mount. I can't decide whether or not to mount the box near my left arm along the gunwales or between my legs on the console.

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[jallen355]

Like derrel said. You should make a few of those pivot setups. I'll take one, too!!

any more progress?

[Kurt_Loup]

Between a soccer game and a birthday party, I got some more work done today. I started by drilling a pilot hole in the replacement head for the trolling motor then I bored the hole to the size of the trolling motor shaft (didn't get a picture of that).

http://i425.photobucket.com/albums/pp336/kurtloup/IMG_0060.jpg

Once the hole was bored, I drilled and tapped the cap for mounting screws and mounted it to the head.

http://i425.photobucket.com/albums/pp336/kurtloup/IMG_0062.jpg

The cap and head were turned together so that they would be concentric. I drilled a hole in the cap for the wiring.

http://i425.photobucket.com/albums/pp336/kurtloup/IMG_0063.jpg

The wing were the rudder cables attach was bored to the diameter of the trolling motor shaft.

http://i425.photobucket.com/albums/pp336/kurtloup/IMG_0065.jpg

I drilled holes for cap head screws to attach the wing to the bottom of the head.

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I tested the head on the trolling motor shaft to determine how much shaft to cut off.

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I drilled the head with the appropriate drill to tap for a 1/4"-20 cap head screw and counterbored the head. Before I tapped the head, I placed it on the shaft and drilled through the shaft with the undersize drill bit. I used a rat tail file to enlarge the hole for a tight fit on the 1/4" screw.

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[Kurt_Loup]

The motor was wired with 4 strand 14 gauge wire. I had a surprisingly hard time pushing the wires into the trolling motor shaft.

http://i425.photobucket.com/albums/pp336/kurtloup/IMG_0076.jpg

Finished head. Even though there is an acute angle from the stock rudder cable exit to the wing, the motor turns easy and I was able to lift it pulling on the foot pedals with my hands. It should be much easier pushing with my feet. Tomorrow, I'll finish wiring the switch. I hope to get it out on the water tomorrow for a test run.

http://i425.photobucket.com/albums/pp336/kurtloup/IMG_0077.jpg

[MDR]

Very impressive.

[derrelt]

Kurt, that is looking awesome. You are doing a very nice job. Really looks store bought!!!

You might want to use at least 12 GA wire for the power and ground to the motor. I am a automotive electronics technician and deal with 12V wiring every day. The 14 GA is smaller than the wire coming out of the motor and will cause a voltage drop when in use. It also could over heat due to amperage flow when on high speed. Bigger is always better. I used 10 GA for mine because if the distance of the run to the front hatch where my battery is located and have less than .2 of a volt drop. Minn Kota shows the Euro 30 can draw up to 30 amps. My meter reads 21 amps on high speed and no load (in the garage). A 14 GA is just too small for a 20+ amp circuit draw.

Not trying to rain on your parade, just a suggestion.

[Kurt_Loup]

Thanks Derrel. I went with 14 gauge because the previous owner of the tm was using 14 gauge wire to run the tm to a remote battery.

[jallen355]

That looks great Kurt. Nice work. I think I need to start looking for a lathe and a mill, too.

derrel, 14ga. is what Minn Kota has installed oem, so no matter what gauge wiring you use to extend to the remote mounted switch will be choked back down inside the shaft. I wired mine up with 12 ga. last night and that was the first thing I noticed.

[ijuswannafish]

That is an awesome looking set up. I must say you have some skills there. Thanks for posting each step. That was nice also.

[derrelt]

On mine, the yellow ans white wires are 14 GA but the red and black (out of the motor) are both 12 GA.

[jallen355]

You are correct. My bad. Heading out to the spillway. Going to deliver the Checkmate and seatrial the Commander.

Kurt, lemme know when/if you reproduce some of your tilt triggers. I need one!!

[derrelt]

That looks great Kurt. Nice work. I think I need to start looking for a lathe and a mill, too.

derrel, 14ga. is what Minn Kota has installed oem, so no matter what gauge wiring you use to extend to the remote mounted switch will be choked back down inside the shaft. I wired mine up with 12 ga. last night and that was the first thing I noticed.

Jammie, a little choke is better than a lot of choke.

[revredfish]

All I can say is "WOW"

[yak-aholic]

That's some sweet work there Kurt. Kinda makes me miss working in a machine shop.

[Kurt_Loup]

Thanks for the compliments. I took the kayak out this afternoon to False River. It worked pretty good, but there are a few things I need to tweak. 1. The foot pedals stick too much. I'll try putting grease on them. 2. I didn't like the speed control on the console near my feet. I had to bend forward to reach it. I think I will locate it near my left elbow. 3. I need to move the foot pedals closer as I ran out of leg length pushing forward to raise the motor.

By the way, I caught 3 hybrid striped bass before lightning ran me off the water.

Derrel, I tested the motor with the 14 gauge wire. Where would I feel heat if there is a problem? When I finished running around, the wires attached to the battery were not warm.

Kurt

[derrelt]

If your motor does not go much over 15 A on high you may be OK. The wire itself will get warm to touch if currant flow is too high. This can cause the insulation to fail over time. The wire in your picture is inside a housing so you may not feel too much heat on the out side. You may want to check at the switch where you can get to the wire itself.
Each part of a circuit is a "resistor". Connectors, wire, switch, and the load(motor) . Each section of a circuit has a volt drop of about .2 volts (except the load) so you are loosing available voltage to the load. High resistance will use voltage to get through it causing voltage drop and less available voltage to the motor. Smaller wire causes higher resistance when under heavy flow. This translates to a less power and more heat in the motor. Power loss may not be much but could cause concerns over time. You want the load to use all the voltage if possible. The black and red wires out of the motor are both 12 GA which is used on 20 to 25 Amp circuits. The larger wire has less resistance and gets more voltage to the motor. If it was mine I would go with at least 12 GA to match the manufacturer.

[papawd]

Hey Kurt, looks very nice, makes me wish I had a bigger shop. I do enjoy building and creating things. Derrelt is correct I would do at least 12 ga....the 14 may melt and short out over time. the whole project looks really nice. NIce to chat with Ya today in Lowe's. I think the control by your elbow will be a nice added plus.

[Kurt_Loup]

Hey Kurt, looks very nice, makes me wish I had a bigger shop. I do enjoy building and creating things. Derrelt is correct I would do at least 12 ga....the 14 may melt and short out over time. the whole project looks really nice. NIce to chat with Ya today in Lowe's. I think the control by your elbow will be a nice added plus.

Thanks. Sorry I couldn't stick around longer to talk shop.

Here is a video of the trial run http://www.rsff.org/uploads/info/kurts_yakmotor_test.wmv After seeing the video, I may need to move the battery to the front. It didn't seem like I was sitting that low in the water, but that may be the normal waterline for all I know.

[yak-aholic]

yeah, I was thinking the same thing about the battery when I looked at it.

[Branch_Office]

Looks low....Looks good but looks low.

[tefishmaster]

Kurt, I've seen a lot of rigging on this site, but man you have a real talent for that kind of work. That is very impressive. Great job.

[Kurt_Loup]

I decided to relocate the battery today. I started off by rewiring the trolling motor with 10 gauge wire. I purchased a set of 7 way trailer plugs from the trailer parts place in town. The plugs are rated for 10 gauge wire. The closest flat spot with enough room to mount the female plug was in the tank well behind the seat. This worked out well as there was access from the hatch behind the seat. I mounted the switch near my left knee and moved the battery to the front hatch. It probably took about 3 hours to complete the job.

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[papawd]

that looks good really good

[ijuswannafish]

That looks very professional. Keep us posted on how it rides since you moved everything.

[derrelt]

Looks really good man. It should get the back up buy moving the battery to the front. How are you going to secure the battery? I the picture, looks like it could slide around. My Prowler has a built in fish finder battery shelf that I modified and added a strap on to hold the battery in place. I think you will like the switch much better on the side. That is similar to where mine is and it works well for me. Glad to hear you went with the larger wire, it is much safer and if you decide to soup it up (40 or 50 lb) you should be good to go. If/when my 30 dies, I am thinking about a 40. May be I can get it up on top. LOL

We will have to get the motor patrol together for a drag race. Did I say race, I meant fishing trip.

[jallen355]

Lookin good Kurt. If you take anymore video of it running with the battery relocated, be sure and post a link to it. I'm curious how it changes the attitude of the hull in the water. I think you found a great location for the speed control, too.

P.S. Thanks for the "Loup Lever". I fabbed a 1" thick setback plate out of coosa board and the whole rig works flawlessly. We're headed out this morning to begin our week long "sea trial", er...I mean vacation, so I'll certainly find any design flaws. :sterb038:

P.S.S. Watch your mailbox.....

[jallen355]

We will have to get the motor patrol together for a drag race. Did I say race, I meant fishing trip.[/QUOTE]

I'll say it again d.. "TWINS"!

[Kurt_Loup]

Thanks guys. The battery fits between chines molded in the hull. I can bungee it to the scupper holes through the battery carry handle. I may try to 5200 a battery tray in there. I do have a 55 lbs Great White in the shop. Don't give me any ideas.

[Psycho Joe]

Hey Kurt,

What size battery is that?

[Kurt_Loup]

It is a U1 size AGM battery with 35 Ah. It weighs about 25 lbs. A friend of mine has the same battery and tells me he gets about 2 hours of run time out of it.

Kurt

[Psycho Joe]

Isn't that the battery they use in Grandma's power chair?

[Kurt_Loup]

Maybe. I bought it off ebay. I think one of the uses listed was for chairs.

[papawd]

check ---Ebatteriestogo.com----they sell some of those batteries and are the most reasonable I have found so far

[downoffthemountain]

Kurt,
I'm planning on rigging a similar set up (albeit a much less refined version) for my new canoe and wanted to pick your brain on a few items:
1. I like the idea of using the trailer wiring cables. Heavy enough wire, designed to withstand the elements, convenient plug, etc....& I know where to get them, but where did you source your control dial/box? Would Home Depot have such stuff or will I need to locate an electrical supply house? I don't have the luxury of an open hull to accomodate a built in box, so I'm planning on a control box that can be attached when in use or removed when not, similar to a depth finder.
2. I know you fabricated your own foot pegs but without such a shop, I'm going the route of purchasing pre-made. I saw some on Austin Kayak's website. Do you have any pointers or advise on what I should be looking for? The center channel on the NuCanoe should be a pretty easy install, with built-in mounting points for the brackets and cable guides already there.
3. When I bought the NuCanoe it came with a 38lb. minn kota, bow mount, trolling motor. The NuCanoe is designed for a transom mount. I'm going to research a transom mount from the manufacturer, but are there any other options I should consider? I'll likely replicate your design for tip lever arm, depending on the transom mount.
4. The control housing is already cracked so eliminating it completely won't hurt my feelings. I don't have a metal lathe or milling machine handy, so I'm thinking I'll just go the route of a 90`pvc elbow to transition to the trailer cable and use a piece of flat strap with a metal collar to replicate your steering mechanism. I'm envisioning the collar having enough mass to allow for screwing the flat strap steering arm to it from below and screwing through it's face to attach it to the metal shaft. All the stress would be metal on metal. The pvc 90`would just be to accomodate the wiring cable.
The battery will be mounted in the bow to balance out the weight. Any other thoughts or words of wisdom?

[Kurt_Loup]

My office is closed today, so I was about to go in the garage to start on a new replacement head for a motor. I plan to change a few things to save time machining the head.

1. I got the trailer plugs at Trailer World in Baton Rouge across from Don's Seafood on Airline Hwy. I think they were less than $25 for the pair. The mounting box for the Tarpon and the canoe were purchased in the electrical section at Home Depot. The 10 gauge 4 wire wiring was purchased at Lowe's. The switch on the canoe box was purchased from McMaster Carr. I originally thought about an external mount for the Tarpon's box using a Ram mount, but I decided to mount the switch in the hull. There is no reason you can't externally mount the switch. You would not need the trailer plugs if you didn't put the battery inside the hull. Here are a few pictures of the switch boxes:

http://i425.photobucket.com/albums/pp336/kurtloup/IMG_0249.jpg

I added tabs to the seat frame where the clamps are in the picture to mount the control box.

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The switch was epoxied to the box cover

http://i425.photobucket.com/albums/pp336/kurtloup/IMG_0054.jpg

I originally planned to mount it to this Ram mount.

[Kurt_Loup]

2. Although I haven't used them for a trolling motor project (have them on my sea kayak), I think the Yakima foot braces are the best made. Most of the sliding braces should work. I am using Old Town foot braces that I found in the bargain cave at Cabela's.

http://www.oneoceankayaks.com/Images/yakima_main.jpg

3. Here is a transom mount on ebay http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MINN-KOTA-TROLLER-MAXXUM-ENDURA-TRANSOM-MOUNT-BRACKET-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem56423d9d93QQitemZ370478521747QQptZBoatQ5fPartsQ5fAccessoriesQ5fGear#ht_1506wt_941 If you look around the web, you may find one cheaper.

4. I haven't done it this way, but you can simply replace the bolt in the clamp on the trolling motor that sets the depth of the motor with a couple eye bolts. Attach the steering cables to it. I'm sure a few guys on the forum can comment on that.

[derrelt]

Jammie did his with the eye bolts and it seams to work ok. I made a wing out of plastic for mine and attached it with conduit clamps. Been working for 2 years now.

[downoffthemountain]

Thanks for all the info. If all goes smoothly, I'll be motorized for Outcast 7. I'll be sure to take pics as I go and of the finished product.